This week I went to an estate sale and found myself in the basement. At the far end was a small room lined with shelves that had its own door, I suspect it was intended as a root cellar. The owner had mostly stored opened paint cans and miscellaneous tools in there. Barely visible was a dusty cardboard box with some writing on it. I pulled it out and it was a Jim Beam decanter in a plain white box. As I turned it around to read what was stamped on it, I could feel it sloshing around. It still had liquor inside!
At this point I was pretty excited. In 4+ years of vintage picking I hadn't come across any old decanters with actual booze in them. Once we were home I did some research on old bottles of Jim Beam. There were plenty of people theorizing that it would be bad in some way. I read one article that proclaimed it would not keep aging in the decanter because bottling halts the aging process. I didn't feel very confident about any of these opinions because very few of them were from people who had actually opened an old bottle and tasted it.
After all that reading I was committed to opening the bottle. I had confirmed that there probably wasn't a huge windfall coming my way if I sold it, plus I'm pretty sure eBay won't let you sell without a liquor license. The main pitfall seemed to be checking the cork to make sure it still had a good seal. On inspection I could see that the old tax strip had not been broken, so it had not been opened and resealed. So far so good!
My husband tried to uncork the bottle but it was sealed in pretty tight. It had a ceramic stopper and we assumed it was cork in the bottle. We were in luck again because it turned out to be a cork with a plastic coating over it, so the cork itself had not been exposed to the liquor or the elements over the years. We both sniffed and didn't pick up anything off about it. My husband wiped down the lip just in case there was dust or gunk on it. Then we poured it out of the decanter and into an empty bottle.
We poured a shot glass and both took tentative sips. It didn't taste weird in any way. Unfortunately we're not bourbon drinkers so we probably aren't a good judge of how well it held up. Personally I felt a head-to-head taste test was in order....
So a day later we went to our local liquor store to get a bottle of Beam bourbon that had been aged 9 years like our vintage bottle. Unfortunately none of the current Beam offerings are aged 9 years, the closest we could find was Jim Beam Black. The bottle of Black simply said "extra aged" although some searches online turned up the tidbit that a few years ago it was aged 8 years (later dropped from the label, no official word if the aging was also changed).
We poured out two shot glasses of bourbon -- one aged 9 years plus 49 in the package and the other aged a theoretical 8 years. We sniffed both and right away could tell a difference between the two. The older Beam had a prominent Rum-like smell and the new Beam had a mild alcohol smell with a hint of buttery or sweetness to it.
Next we tasted each, just a small sip held in our mouth for a few seconds before swallowing. The old Beam had a strong flavor that reminded me quite a bit of Rum. Holding it on your tongue had a distinct fire to it and when swallowed it had a potent alcohol bite. The new Beam had almost no flavor other than a slight medicinal quality in the mouth. New Beam had a milder bite to it going down as well. I'm not a drinker so my take is purely based on the inexperienced impressions of someone who doesn't drink (like at all).
However my husband does drink Vodka and craft beer on a regular basis. His impressions were pretty similar to mine. We both agreed that the old Beam had a very Rum-like quality to it. He said if he continued to drink the new Beam he would use it only as a mixer but he would consider drinking the old Beam on its own over ice.
If you come across an old bottle of liquor, don't be afraid to open it. It may taste better than the new stuff!
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